She’s clearly having fun, running around in circles, chewing sticks, and finding and eating cat poop. And I don’t want to discourage her from having fun when I take her outside (except for the cat poop thing – that needs to stop).
But she seems to have the idea that jumping up and biting my wrists or my ankles is a fun game that we both enjoy, and she seems to be getting more agressive about it.
Stop playing as soon as it happens. Wait 10-15 mins before going again.
To add onto this use reinforcing language. Soon they’ll start to react to the word so you will continue playing.
With our puppies we say “OW” very dramatically, hold the limb that was nipped like it is wounded, and stop play for 5-10 minutes and return. Works like a charm
Yelp, even if it doesn’t hurt. They understand that more than words
You say “ow” and stop playing for a bit. They’ll figure it out eventually. Most breeds, anyway. Huskies will just learn to be super gentle while still using their mouth.
Always reinforce with the words “No bite!”
Dogs speak and understand english very poorly
They learn tone and phrase just fine
My mother-in-law’s dog had a vocabulary of over 80 words.
My understanding is that they learn how to play as puppies as they would get feedback. So you may consider exaggerating when it hurts to better highlight the pain. Alternatively, another puppy to play with.
That was what I was going to say as well.
They usually learn to stop by interacting with their litter mates.
Most pups are taken away too young for this to happen. You want pups with their littermates at least up to 12 weeks and they start with pretty good bite inhibition. It’s so different meeting pups treated properly rather than the byb pups taken at 8 weeks or sometimes even younger.
Yep, the difference in that short time is pretty big. My parents bred dogs when I was a kid. My dad liked to keep them together for 16 weeks.
taken at 8 weeks or sometimes even younger.
The people who do this are arseholes running puppy mills in my opinion.
16 is even better. It’s difficult because you really want them to start socialisation by that point and breeders individually socialising a litter can be a challenge, but for those who can it’s a much more stable dog the owner is starting with.
I do dog rescue and a lot of people got their first ever dog over covid and people who had no idea how to raise a pup raised some really messed up dogs. Starting with an older dog that is a bit more stable just makes all the difference.
Yelp, make it understood that you’re not having fun. Sounds like a distressed puppy for a any time it happens. Oddly, that worked with my dog for her jumping on me, but not for everyone. It’s… Frustrating. She knows that’s not how I play, but others in my family not so much.
Edit: I’m not a trainer, you might want to get a session or two with someone who is highly rated, to get their input.
For cat poop, we got one of these dog playpen enclosures: Amazon Basics - Octagonal Foldable Metal Exercise Pet Play Pen for Dogs, Fence Pen, Single Door, Small, 60 x 60 x 30 Inches, Black https://a.co/d/6Nz4VuU
It is set so that the cats can get through a gap easily, but Henry can’t get his head through without causing a huge racket.
That doesn’t look like a very big area for a dog
I thought the OP was talking about their dog getting into an indoors litter box. It’s not for the dog to play in, it’s to keep them out. (In case you’re joking, let me be the first to say whoooosh to myself lol)
Oh phew, I assumed dog was finding cat poo when out and about so I thought you were suggesting setting that up as a prison yard for dog to attempt to run around in!
Remove its teeth.
