What you are doing: adding the unstable repository to your Debian system. Debian has three levels of software stability, stable, testing and unstable.

Stable does what is says on the tin. It’s stable, but older. Testing is gonna be the next major version when it’s deemed stable enough to be called stable. Unstable is for trying out new shit and seeing what breaks. It has the most recent packages and the most problems.

Stable and testing will be named after different characters from Toy Story, unstable will always be named after the character “Sid” from Toy Story.

In the context of what you’re trying to do, you are fucking up.

Yt-dlp can (and should in most cases) update itself by using the command “yt-dlp -U”. But it will only update itself that way if you manually install it from the git page.

You can do this by downloading it and putting it somewhere in your users $path. This is just like putting a program folder in windows in c:\program files and making a start menu entry manually, except you won’t make the start menu entry because your shell will always look in $path to see if it can run what you just typed. If you’re familiar with Macs, it’s literally like copying the program to your applications directory.

There’s instructions how to manually install on the yt-dlp git.

You should do yt-dlp this way unless you have a good reason to use the Debian repos or pip.

E: once you get yourself straightened out, make sure to add “yt-dlp -U” to all your scripts before they actually run. It keeps you from getting the wrong quality profile or downloads from failing or whatever.

Switch to x11 and use xscreensaver will fix that problem.

A cron job that runs when you want it to instead of the unattended updates metapackage.

Why are you doing this?

If you don’t know why you are trying to get personally identifying information off the internet then you can’t evaluate weather you should trust the third party you’re considering contracting the job to.

If you don’t know why you’re trying to get personally identifying information off the internet then you can’t even evaluate advice people give you about it.

Dual boot install first and make sure it’s working good for your needs. Power management and mic in asahi isn’t there.

The computer will be pretty good under asahi and blow everything else out of the water under macOS.

If you don’t already know it, go ahead and learn macOS.

If you’re worried about the ssd being slow, make an install medium and flatten and reinstall macOS with after filling the ssd with bits from dev/random.

Locate the service manuals or some kind of tear down. Confirm that the process will be within your capability. Order some thermal compound. Disassemble the laptop until you remove the heatsink from the cpu. Clean the old cpu and heatsink with isopropyl until it’s as clean as can possibly be. Apply new thermal compound. Reassemble laptop.

this might be the service manual for the alienware

A1502 could be a lot of laptops, use the emc number or serial to find out which one or just look for the MacBook Pro NN,n number in the about option under the Apple menu. It doesn’t matter which one you have, they’re all really easy to work on and well documented.

Oh yeah, I completely forgot, that laptops real old, so go ahead and regrease the cpu.

I can’t remember off the top of my head because it’s been a long while, but there’s some weird option inside the configurator that accounts for one of the things the early atom line doesn’t have that the default kernel expects out of x86 or x64 processors.

Of course, any binary program that was compiled with the expectation of that capacity would also have weird hangs and slowness, but (like I said, a while ago) that didn’t tend to cause a 1.3ghz atom to be slower than a 700mhz pentium m.

Compile your own kernel for those atom processors and they work much better.

It’s not hard, there’s a text interface for it where you just pick what to do from a list.

I measure noise several times a week and quantify it in an effort to locate its sources. Noise is a very effective way to hide information, and becomes more effective when the number of domains increases.

To give you an idea of how this comes into play, I use many different tools and methods of analysis to locate sources of noise in two domains, time and frequency. We’ve been formally studying noise in those two domains for like 150 years, so there’s a lot of information, equipment and techniques out there.

It’s still very hard.

The type of data used in PPA has (based on my limited understanding) at least five domains, each of which contain data with a “bit depth” that’s an order of magnitude more than the signals I usually work with.

I think noising would be an excellent method to anonymize PPA data.

I’ve taken deer with 556. Even if I hadn’t, I know people do because all the heavy loads sell out around deer season.

Don’t drink and drive.

Always keep a first aid kit with you.

Actually know how to use your first aid kit.

It should be in a drawer or bag with a conspicuous Red Cross on it. If a stranger can’t figure out where the first aid kit is, you fucked up.

Most Americans are incredibly politically aware, but would not call their understanding political and don’t believe the government can resolve their problems.

They’re wrong about the former and right about the latter.

As long as you have some way of recognizing which is which in the windows installer so you don’t accidentally wipe your existing drive.

If you’re worried, just pull the one you don’t want wiped out of the system while you’re installing.

The new drive probably doesn’t show in the boot menu because it doesnt have a partition table or anything.

Are both drives the same size? What I’m trying to figure out is would you be able to recognize when the windows installer is trying to install to the wrong drive.

There’s a lot of people saying not to pay for windows or not to use eBay or to download from Microsoft directly or to use massgrave instead but there are very few possibly no responses explaining why that’s a better option than buying from eBay.

First things first, and I know this is gonna get some people responding with the ol’ “nuh-uh”, but there’s compromised counterfeit install media for sale. You most likely don’t know how to tell the good from the bad. The bad can also look very, very good.

If you want to know you’re getting the good stuff straight from Microsoft, use uupdump to create an updated install media for whatever sku(version of windows) you want and use rufus to make the usb installer (you’ll need to be inside a windows vm or on your old version of windows). The reason I say use Rufus is because it gives you the opportunity to turn off some stuff like requiring a Microsoft account in the 11 install process.

Once that’s done and installed, you can activate however you like, either with massgrave or with a key for your sku purchased from Microsoft directly.

Okay, clear the old upower data stored in your computers /var/lib/upower/ directory with rm /var/lib/upower/* then restart the upower service or just restart your computer.

No, just to install windows on the right drive. It doesn’t matter after that.

You can’t.

The laptop talks to the battery and the software you’re using tries to talk to the laptop to see what the battery says. What’s your laptop make and model, battery make and model and did you check the bios for battery configuration?

If this is your laptop then it uses an “a” keyed card like this one for $30, which is listed as supporting wpa3 in windows according to intel.