Yup, this was pretty much supposed to be the point of the meme. Audio, unfortunately, is a much more difficult problem. It seems like we’re getting closer every year though and I’m excited for when wireless audio is as good as wireless keyboards and mice.
I have. You either get good sound quality or low latency. Pretty much every low latency wireless protocol (at least the ones I’m aware of) sacrifices bitrate for latency. I’m not an audiophile by any stretch of the imagination, but I can tell when sound quality isn’t great.
This wasn’t meant to be the point of the meme at all. Wireless keyboards and mice have overcome the issues that made them objectively worse than their wired counterparts (latency and accuracy). Unfortunately though with wireless headphones you either get low latency or good audio quality, and I’m yet to find headphones that do both well. At the moment I have WH-1000XM4s I use for music at work and ATH-M50Xs I use for games. If I could get the best of both worlds I absolutely would, but it seems like every good sounding wireless headphones have awful latency that’s too jarring to ignore when playing games.
For my current job we’ve all agreed to take the approach of not writing comments that say what the code does, but why you did something the way you did. Probably about 90% of our code is uncommented because it just doesn’t need to be, but every once in a while you have to do something out of the ordinary to get the desired behavior, and explaining why you made the weird decision you did is infinitely more helpful.
That’s crazy to me. Our manager went out on a boat last week on Friday, and we haven’t heard shit from him since. Hell, we’d probably tattle on him to our skip level if we did because our skip would be furious to hear people are working during vacation. I’m a software engineer in the US, and unfortunately stories like yours are all too common here :/
I have like 3, but I find myself going back to Sync. I wish Relay would have gone this route as that was by far my favorite.
The price is a bit steep for me personally, but I agree. I’m currently on Connect but the call from Sync is strong.
WD Greens are most commonly SSDs. They do make WD Green HDDs but they’re not common, and the one OP had picked out was a 1 TB WD Green SSD.
Good to hear. I remember during Zen2 a $10 price difference in RAM could be 5-10% performance because it just ate the hell out of fast RAM.
If you’re on a budget that WD Green drive is a great choice. They get slept on because they’re ultimately second to Samsung in the storage space, but they make great drives and have been solid since before I was even born (I’m 23). I actually ran a 1TB WD HDD in 2013 that only recently started making ticking noises. I proactively replaced it since SSDs are stupid cheap nowadays, but I probably could’ve run it for a while longer before having any issues.
SSDs and HDDs have similar life spans now, with some SSDs even having better longevity if you’re willing to pay for it. The only reason to get HDDs now is if you need cheap bulk storage. For most people getting a $50 1TB SSD will be all they ever need.
Agree. Great parts list. The only thing I’m not 100% sure on is RAM because I have not kept up with CPU performance given different DDR5 specs, but I figure someone else would point it out if there was any misconfiguration there (such as when you see someone get a 3000MHz DDR4 kit for a Ryzen processor).
This is an instance where exercising eBay’s great buyer protections is warranted. The card is outside of what I’d consider fully functional since it overheats due to a defect. If it was advertised this way that’s one thing, but if not return it and get a fully functional card from an honest seller.
You can pry my 49" 32:9 monitor from my cold dead hands.
Seriously though glad you found something that works for you. I could see them being difficult for RTS/ARPGs. I’ve started getting back into racing games because of my 32:9 because being able to use the side mirrors is cool as hell.
I followed this guide from PiMyLifeUp. I’m a pretty technical person, but I’ve been leaning on their guides more and more because they’re so damn simple, and I’m tired of feeling like I’m reading the Linux equivalent of medical journals.
One issue I ran into was the qbittorrent user that is created did not have rwx access to the directory I was downloading files to causing my torrents to stall, so be aware of that. You also need a small fan for the Pi’s processor otherwise it will overheat. Other than that we just have a 2TB SSD connected over USB to the Pi 3B+ and it works great, even with 4k BluRay content.
Once you get the qBittorrent server set up, set the default download location as a library in Plex and as long as you enable autoscan torrents should automatically get ingested into Plex once they finish. The setup also makes it way easier to seed and get super high ratios if you’re into that. Then you can connect to qBittorrent from anywhere on your local network and give it magnet links, or even setup ZeroTier One as a P2P VPN to allow you to connect from remote networks. Currently it is setup to tunnel all traffic through ProtonVPN running on Wireguard.
Sure! It is this one from Amazon. I went for it because unlike a lot of KVMs I saw, this one had a “remote” that could be put on your desk instead of having to hit the switch button on the KVM itself which made hiding all the cables a ton easier. You can see it the center of my monitor stand.
The KVM itself has 4 USB-A inputs and two DP/USB-A outputs (one for each device). I run one set of DP/USB-A cables to my PC and the other set to my Macbook. The USB-A going to my Macbook plugs into a USB A to C dongle with an ethernet port on it that I plug directly into our switch. Unfortunately, when I ran ethernet into the switch I was only getting ~400Mbps down instead of 1Gbps, so I opted to run networking to each computer independently. For video I use a DP to USB-C cable which goes directly into my Macbook. For charging I just use the standard charger that came with it. Even though it is not as nice as having a single cable for power/video/input it works great for my use case, and plugging in the extra two cables is hardly a bother considering the laptop sits there for days at a time.
Hope this helps!
Thanks! It’s a 49" Odyssey CRG9. It’s rated for 120Hz, but like most Samsung panels you can push them a bit. I currently have it at 144 Hz and haven’t had any issues. I got it refurbished on Amazon for $800.
100% agree. The few times I have to turn off uBlock because it is breaking some obscure website it is always an awful experience. Auto-playing videos, ads taking up half the screen, and those annoying as fuck cookie banners. I can’t imagine using the internet without an ad/cookie blocker. I accidentally turned it off on Lemmy for a while and it was the only site that I didn’t immediately notice.
I have an Odyssey CRG9. It seems so absurd at first, but after a while it makes using any 16:9 monitor feel cramped as hell. Just be aware ultrawide support is lacking at times, but nothing you can’t tweak around. Took me about a month of use to get everything to where I don’t have to think about it much anymore.
I’ve always used desktop microphones, but that’s an issue I didn’t even consider. Tbh it seems like most “gamer” headsets slap on the shittiest microphones because they affect you the least and it ticks another box on the product page.