Jellyfin didn’t have an app for my then 3-year old LG WebOS TV so, unfortunately, I couldn’t use it.
I know people are going to say I should just use a smart box connected to my TV instead of my TV’s smart features, but there’s a difference in usability that they’re not acknowledging.
The Turris Omnia is an open, powerful router that comes with OpenWRT.
Turris adds an additional UI and features beyond that, but the OpenWRT UI is still available and the stock firmware can be completely replaced with OpenWRT if so desired.
It’s a bit pricey but has great specs (1.6 GHz dual core, 2GB RAM, 8GB eMMC) and is an excellent device for tinkerers with headers exposing UART, JTAG, GPIO, and more. It has three internal mPCIe ports as well.
I am not affiliated with Turris but just happened to stumble upon a new one at a garage sale a couple of days ago. Lucky find and I’m excited.
My pet peeve has always been when media controls (like volume) are on the right side of the steering wheel rather than the left.
To me it makes a lot less sense to put them on the right when my right hand is already 10 inches away from another set of media controls (left-hand drive vehicle).
My 2004 Mazda, 2018 Mazda, and 2011 Kia all had it figured out and pretty much used the same layout for media controls and accessories like cruise control. My Ford, however, seems like no thought was put into it.
Brought to you by the same company that takes you to the logout page when you go to the login URL
Is this the new GM infotainment system?
I should have been more specific. I was hoping this fixes an issue with LO not scaling correctly when using multiple screens with different scaling factors. Unfortunately this is still an issue.
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Please tell me it fixes scaling issues on Wayland.
I feel like everybody is overlooking the fact that this person is getting an ad, to watch ads, after already paying for Premium.
I used BlueProximity for a number of years and it was great.
It eventually became defunct, but that link appears to be a fork to bring it somewhat up to date. I have not tested this new version though since I work from home now.
For most utilities (water, electricity), there’s a relatively linear relationship between the tangible value provided (energy used, water dispensed) and the cost to provide it (coal burned, water sourced/treated). Even for wind- or hydro-powered electricity, the amount that everybody uses has a proportional amount of wear on the system and consequent required maintenance.
But not so much for ISPs. Instead, you’re basically paying for a “fictional” amount (speed) of a non-tangible product. Granted, there is a linear relationship to the amount of electricity the ISP uses to provide each bit, but it’s negligible.
Instead, what you’re paying for with internet is essentially to recoup the fixed costs of the provider’s equipment. They do need to upgrade every so often to accommodate more capacity and faster speeds, but this is proportional to speeds provided and not data volume used.
*edit: replied to wrong comment
The --hold feature was introduced with snapd v2.58 which was released as recently as Dec 1, so less than 9 months ago. So I would consider this a relatively new feature.
Furthermore, as best as I can tell from the documentation, there isn’t even a way to configurably hold updates in general or for a specific package like can be done with apt-preferences; refresh.hold only allows 90 days out.
I think it is a perfectly valid criticism that the snap developers didn’t implement this feature at all until well into the life of the product and then, even then, done begrudgingly at best evidenced by the minimal implementation.
Now, I feel like I did my research, but feel free to let me know if there’s something I can do better or if you have any other general life advice for me.
Gen 10 checking in, still works flawlessly.
You can’t beat the ease of firmware updates either. lvfs/fwupdmgr take care of updates for both my laptop and Lenovo TB4 docking station.
Try putting it in the freezer for a few minutes before trying to read the data. Or heat it up slightly.
This is an old trick I’ve used to recover data from a hard drive or two. I suppose it could help if the problem with the SD is some kind of microscopic fractures.
It should be emphasized that this is just a temporary workaround at best.
I just checked again and you’re right! The app seems to now be available for older versions of WebOS whereas it wasn’t a year ago or so.
Thanks for the heads up!